We have been on the move since the last entry and have seen more of this lovely country. On the drive along Cape Peninsula we visited Simon's Town and the penguin colony at the Boulders. We drove through the wine making region and visited the town of Stellenbosch as well as the Spiers winery. On our last full day in Capetown, we finally had the weather conditions needed to visit Table Mountain. The geographical beauty of this country is awe-inspiring and Capetown truly is a magnificent city. We were also able to visit Robben Island. The tour was conducted by a former prisoner, one of the students from the 1976 Soweto riots. Seeing the Island and the conditions for the inmates through the eyes of a prisoner added so much to our understanding of those historic times. The message our guide imprinted on us, which he asked us to take with us, was that he hoped that the lessons of Robben Island is one of reconciliation, understanding and forgiveness - lessons that Nelson Mandela impressed on the world.
We then visited Kruger National Park for 3 days. It would be too long for me to list the animals we saw, but it included elephants, rhinos, wildebeests, Cape buffalo, kudum waterbuck, etc. We were fortunate to have two very exciting experiences with elephants and rhinos.
Today we visitd Soweto - yet another highlight on a trip filled with highlights. Soweto is nothing at all like the picture depicted by western media. We visited the sites of the 1976 riots and the musuem of Hector Pietersen - the first student killed in the protests against the Government's policy of enforcing Afrikaans on the African students. Hector was 12 at thr time of his death. We also visited the Mandela family home. As we were walking in to the house, Winnie Mandela was just leaving. When you hear the full story of Winnie Mandela you get a much better understanding of the suffering this woman has endured for South Africa.
Tonight we're off to Fordsburg which is wall-to-wall Indian restaurants, stores, videos etc. Apparently it's a wonderful experience of smells, sound and culture with cars triple parked and sidewalks jam-packed.
Tomorrow's our last day and I can assure you that it will be a parting filled with many wonderful, warm memories and many tears.
Early next week I'll do a special entry on food. South African culture is steeped in hospitality and the cornerstone ifs food. Needless to say I've put on weight and I'm too afraid to step on a scale.
Finally, there is a wonderful Afrikaans word "lekker". Lekker can mean many things and is dependent on context. For example, you can have a lekker (tasty) curry, you can lekker (fun) weekend, a girl may be considered lekker (pretty), etc. In short we had a baie (very) lekker holiday!!!
Friday, July 23, 2010
Thursday, July 15, 2010
Cape Town
One quick correction - in my last entry, I mentioned that about 150,000 people had attended the Durban beach Fan Parks. I stand corrected. The beach Fan Parks had 256,000 fans enjoying the World Cup Final!! In fact, they turned away about 88,000 fans (they had to watch the games at 2 non-beach fan parks).
We arrived in Cape Town on Tuesday afternoon - what a spectacularly beautiful city.
Yesterday, because of weather conditions we were not able to visit either Robben Island nor Table Mountain. Instead, we spent time in the City Centre and discovered some family history. Cape Town has a very rich cultural history particularly due to the influence of the Malay people - my paternal grandmother is Malay. The Malays were people that were brought to South Africa as slaves. My great-great-grandfather was brought here as a slave to work as a stonemason. In fact, the turrets on the Castle in Cape Town was constructed by him and others. I also discovered that the family name is inscribed on a memorial in the Slave Lodge (a museum dedicated to South Africa's slaves trade conducted by the Dutch East India Company). A very emotional day for me.
Today, we took a drive that is one of the most spectacular that I have ever done. We drove to Cape Point, where the currents of the Indian and Atlantic Oceans meet. i magine driving along the edge of a sheer cliff with the ocean roaring below. Spectacularly beautiful!! I just wonder what took me so long to come back to SA and to discover Cape Town and the surrounding country.
Just a quick note on driving. As you know, South Africans drive on the left side of the road. So when driving the biggest challenge is in remembering which way to look for oncoming traffic. So far I've only had two close calls. i attribute this to the fact that my father taught me to drive when I was 11 - I used to drive him around the Black township (during Apartheid, Blacks, Coloured and Indians were restricted to specific areas) when he went on house calls to visit patients.
We arrived in Cape Town on Tuesday afternoon - what a spectacularly beautiful city.
Yesterday, because of weather conditions we were not able to visit either Robben Island nor Table Mountain. Instead, we spent time in the City Centre and discovered some family history. Cape Town has a very rich cultural history particularly due to the influence of the Malay people - my paternal grandmother is Malay. The Malays were people that were brought to South Africa as slaves. My great-great-grandfather was brought here as a slave to work as a stonemason. In fact, the turrets on the Castle in Cape Town was constructed by him and others. I also discovered that the family name is inscribed on a memorial in the Slave Lodge (a museum dedicated to South Africa's slaves trade conducted by the Dutch East India Company). A very emotional day for me.
Today, we took a drive that is one of the most spectacular that I have ever done. We drove to Cape Point, where the currents of the Indian and Atlantic Oceans meet. i magine driving along the edge of a sheer cliff with the ocean roaring below. Spectacularly beautiful!! I just wonder what took me so long to come back to SA and to discover Cape Town and the surrounding country.
Just a quick note on driving. As you know, South Africans drive on the left side of the road. So when driving the biggest challenge is in remembering which way to look for oncoming traffic. So far I've only had two close calls. i attribute this to the fact that my father taught me to drive when I was 11 - I used to drive him around the Black township (during Apartheid, Blacks, Coloured and Indians were restricted to specific areas) when he went on house calls to visit patients.
Tuesday, July 13, 2010
World Cup musings
In an earlier posting, I promised that I would share some of my thoughts on Africa's first World Cup
Needless to say, but I think this World Cup was a resounding success. Upsets, controversies, surprises abounded. South Africa scoring the first World Cup goal, watching a nation united like never before, and the hospitality and generosity of South Africans.
Before we embarked on this adventure, all we heard were dire warnings about crime and security and reports that getting to and from games was going to be a nightmare. I know that many people did not travel to SA because of these reports. I can only say that they missed an opportunity of a lifetime. We never felt threatened in the least (in fact, we were made to feel most welcome) and getting in and out of the 90,000 capacity Soccer City was easier than getting out of the Corel Centre!!
The Fan Parks provided us with some of our best World Cup memories. Imagine over 100,000 people at Fan Parks on the beautiful Durban beaches, decked out in team colours, watching the game while the cool Indian Ocean breezes kept us cool. Then dancing 'till the early hours to South African beats!! Even FIFA acknowledged that these were the best Fan Parks ever!!! By the way, the Fan Parks were closed at 5 p.m. on Sunday for the final because they had reached capacity - more than 3 hours before kick-off.
And the stadiums - Soccer City in Johannesburg is stunningly beautiful as you approach it. The Moses Mabida Stadium in Durban is just off the beaches and the arch (which is in the shape of the V in the flag) is a sight to behold. FIFA claims that the Cape Town Stadium is the most perfect soccer stadium in the world.
Now, about the vuvuzelas. First, they sounded much louder on TV than in the stadiums. Second, I believe that when the Europeans and South Americans complained about them, more people were motivated to blow them. Finally, as we know, most media reports implied that the vuvuzelas were being blown by South Africans. This I can say with certainty - had the Europen and South American fans NOT bought vuvuzelas of their own, the noise woud have been cut down by one-half or more!!!
Finally, I can say that I am so proud of my home country and the fantastic job done in hosting the biggest sporting event in the world. They overcame large odds and a tremendous amount of international skepticism. The warmth, generosity and kindness my family and I experienced far exceeded our expectations. We are so grateful that we had this opportuntiy to experience this once-in-a-lefetime event.
Needless to say, but I think this World Cup was a resounding success. Upsets, controversies, surprises abounded. South Africa scoring the first World Cup goal, watching a nation united like never before, and the hospitality and generosity of South Africans.
Before we embarked on this adventure, all we heard were dire warnings about crime and security and reports that getting to and from games was going to be a nightmare. I know that many people did not travel to SA because of these reports. I can only say that they missed an opportunity of a lifetime. We never felt threatened in the least (in fact, we were made to feel most welcome) and getting in and out of the 90,000 capacity Soccer City was easier than getting out of the Corel Centre!!
The Fan Parks provided us with some of our best World Cup memories. Imagine over 100,000 people at Fan Parks on the beautiful Durban beaches, decked out in team colours, watching the game while the cool Indian Ocean breezes kept us cool. Then dancing 'till the early hours to South African beats!! Even FIFA acknowledged that these were the best Fan Parks ever!!! By the way, the Fan Parks were closed at 5 p.m. on Sunday for the final because they had reached capacity - more than 3 hours before kick-off.
And the stadiums - Soccer City in Johannesburg is stunningly beautiful as you approach it. The Moses Mabida Stadium in Durban is just off the beaches and the arch (which is in the shape of the V in the flag) is a sight to behold. FIFA claims that the Cape Town Stadium is the most perfect soccer stadium in the world.
Now, about the vuvuzelas. First, they sounded much louder on TV than in the stadiums. Second, I believe that when the Europeans and South Americans complained about them, more people were motivated to blow them. Finally, as we know, most media reports implied that the vuvuzelas were being blown by South Africans. This I can say with certainty - had the Europen and South American fans NOT bought vuvuzelas of their own, the noise woud have been cut down by one-half or more!!!
Finally, I can say that I am so proud of my home country and the fantastic job done in hosting the biggest sporting event in the world. They overcame large odds and a tremendous amount of international skepticism. The warmth, generosity and kindness my family and I experienced far exceeded our expectations. We are so grateful that we had this opportuntiy to experience this once-in-a-lefetime event.
Sunday, July 11, 2010
On family and hospitality
It is a little over a week that Adam and I arrived in South Africa, after what seemed like an interminable wait to join the others. To say that it has been a whirlwind of activity since then is an understatement. But to describe the warmth of the Osman family that awaited us here is virtually impossible. I can only say that I was somewhat prepared because of what I experience when I return to my extended family in Italy. Only that experience needs to be multiplied by 10 or so because of the size of this family. All I can say is that I feel like I'm living inside one giant hug.
It's been wonderful to get to know different cousins and their children, and I marvel at the similar strains that run through our families despite living so far apart. There is such a love of music and sports among other common interests. It makes clear the shared imprint from grandparents and great-grand-parents and provides a context for our family too. Our children have found easy friends in their cousins and the meshing has been effortless. It will be hard to leave.
Beyond the hospitality and warmth that has been showered on us, I have been struck by the range of people you find within families living under one roof. Each home you enter has a unique composition of family members, spanning two, three, and even four generations and can include uncles and aunts, grandparents, cousins. Everyone shares in the raising of the children, and though at times chaotic, children have someone to turn to all the time. Even more heart-warming than the extended families we see, are the adopted families that spring up. An abandoned baby is taken in by a family with grown children and raised as their own; someone in need is given a place in the family's home for days, months, or years; relatives in transition find homes and become a member of the family until they can move on. Connections are not broken with former spouses even if marriages have dissolved. I know that the generosity and kindness that lives within this family has been passed on from previous generations, and it is the same generosity that I saw in both my father and mother-in-law, but I also see that it is not unique in this country. It is inspiring.
Last night, we had a family reunion of the "Durban/Osman" side of the family. There was music, food, singing, laughter, remembrance of those no longer with us, and much hugging. While we may not have known the name of every one of the nearly 200 people that attended, we felt completely at home. Yusuf gave a short speech to thank his family. He said that there can be apprehension about "coming home". Time brings lots of changes and it is difficult to know whether what you find will match your memories and whether you will fit in the new reality. Those apprehensions were dispelled within minutes of landing in South Africa.
While the hugs ended hours ago, we all still feel very warm.
Lori
It's been wonderful to get to know different cousins and their children, and I marvel at the similar strains that run through our families despite living so far apart. There is such a love of music and sports among other common interests. It makes clear the shared imprint from grandparents and great-grand-parents and provides a context for our family too. Our children have found easy friends in their cousins and the meshing has been effortless. It will be hard to leave.
Beyond the hospitality and warmth that has been showered on us, I have been struck by the range of people you find within families living under one roof. Each home you enter has a unique composition of family members, spanning two, three, and even four generations and can include uncles and aunts, grandparents, cousins. Everyone shares in the raising of the children, and though at times chaotic, children have someone to turn to all the time. Even more heart-warming than the extended families we see, are the adopted families that spring up. An abandoned baby is taken in by a family with grown children and raised as their own; someone in need is given a place in the family's home for days, months, or years; relatives in transition find homes and become a member of the family until they can move on. Connections are not broken with former spouses even if marriages have dissolved. I know that the generosity and kindness that lives within this family has been passed on from previous generations, and it is the same generosity that I saw in both my father and mother-in-law, but I also see that it is not unique in this country. It is inspiring.
Last night, we had a family reunion of the "Durban/Osman" side of the family. There was music, food, singing, laughter, remembrance of those no longer with us, and much hugging. While we may not have known the name of every one of the nearly 200 people that attended, we felt completely at home. Yusuf gave a short speech to thank his family. He said that there can be apprehension about "coming home". Time brings lots of changes and it is difficult to know whether what you find will match your memories and whether you will fit in the new reality. Those apprehensions were dispelled within minutes of landing in South Africa.
While the hugs ended hours ago, we all still feel very warm.
Lori
Thursday, July 8, 2010
The Indian Ocean and the Drakensberg Mountains
Hello! After our last update, we spent the evening with a lot of family who were here to welcome Adam and our mom. It was wonderful to see everyone all together and be together after the last 3 weeks.
On July 5th, we drove down the South Coast to Ramsgate beach. We spent the afternoon on the beach, and most of us took a dip in the “freezing” (17 degrees) winter waters of the Indian Ocean. We spent the evening with family, singing and playing music.
The following day, the family surprised us with a trip to the Drakensberg mountains, the biggest mountain range in South Africa. A convoy arrived in the afternoon, and we spent our time with each other, hiking (and of course eating); later in the evening, we all watched the Netherlands / Uruguay match (imagine 24 people crowded around a 21” T.V. ...) Before bed, we stargazed and saw the most amazing, clear sky of stars before heading off to sleep.
The next morning, a small group of us went for a long and beautiful hike through the mountains. The Drakensberg mountains are said to have some of the most spectacular views, and we definitely saw some of them during our walk. We arrived home in the early evening (we stopped along the way for an epic paintball battle), and headed to the fanpark for the Spain / Germany game. The park was packed and the atmosphere was fantastic. After the match, a DJ came on and we had yet another dance party on the beach.
We have another busy few days coming up. We’ll update this again as soon as we can!
-The Osmans
On July 5th, we drove down the South Coast to Ramsgate beach. We spent the afternoon on the beach, and most of us took a dip in the “freezing” (17 degrees) winter waters of the Indian Ocean. We spent the evening with family, singing and playing music.
The following day, the family surprised us with a trip to the Drakensberg mountains, the biggest mountain range in South Africa. A convoy arrived in the afternoon, and we spent our time with each other, hiking (and of course eating); later in the evening, we all watched the Netherlands / Uruguay match (imagine 24 people crowded around a 21” T.V. ...) Before bed, we stargazed and saw the most amazing, clear sky of stars before heading off to sleep.
The next morning, a small group of us went for a long and beautiful hike through the mountains. The Drakensberg mountains are said to have some of the most spectacular views, and we definitely saw some of them during our walk. We arrived home in the early evening (we stopped along the way for an epic paintball battle), and headed to the fanpark for the Spain / Germany game. The park was packed and the atmosphere was fantastic. After the match, a DJ came on and we had yet another dance party on the beach.
We have another busy few days coming up. We’ll update this again as soon as we can!
-The Osmans
Sunday, July 4, 2010
Goodbye Black Stars...
Hello!
It's been quite quiet the last few days...we've pretty much been relaxing and just spending time with the family. And also eating. As usual.
On Friday night, our dad flew to Joburg, and Sara and I went to the fan park with high hopes for Ghana. The game was an emotional rollercoaster, involving much cheering, screaming, hands in the air, and ultimately, some crying. So sad. Regardless, everyone is so proud of the Black Stars and their accomplishment.
Besides that, it's been a relaxing weekend. We're waiting for our parents and brother to arrive later this evening, as are another 50 relatives who will be coming to welcome them tonight. Much food will also be involved.
That's all for now! We have a busy week ahead, so stay tuned!
It's been quite quiet the last few days...we've pretty much been relaxing and just spending time with the family. And also eating. As usual.
On Friday night, our dad flew to Joburg, and Sara and I went to the fan park with high hopes for Ghana. The game was an emotional rollercoaster, involving much cheering, screaming, hands in the air, and ultimately, some crying. So sad. Regardless, everyone is so proud of the Black Stars and their accomplishment.
Besides that, it's been a relaxing weekend. We're waiting for our parents and brother to arrive later this evening, as are another 50 relatives who will be coming to welcome them tonight. Much food will also be involved.
That's all for now! We have a busy week ahead, so stay tuned!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)